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If you want to learn fly fishing, just start now

Posted: Tuesday, April 04, 2006
There's no better time to learn to fly fish than in the springtime. Most of the gamefish we seek in the Siouxland area move into shallow water during those warm sunny days of April and May and become vulnerable to a properly presented fly. Fly fishing is, in fact, the single most effective presentation for largemouth and smallmouth bass, bluegill and crappies anytime they are in the shallows. Yeh, it's arguable. But I fish with everything except electricity and dynamite, and that's what I think.

So, why don't more people fly fish?

Well, there are a number of reasons. For one thing, fly casting is not easy to learn. It takes a lot of practice to learn to cast well, but the good news is it is a lot like learning to ride a bike. Once you've got it, it doesn't go away. Then, there is the initial investment, the knowledge which must be gained, the probable lack of fishing partners, the fact it is difficult to fly fish on windy days, jet skis, waterskiers...I could go on, but you get the picture.

Fly fishing participation took a tremendous jump right after the movie "A River Runs Through It," a screen adaptation of Norman Maclean's classic novel. Western trout streams are a lot more crowded now, but I haven't noticed a great increase in the pursuit of warm water species. What I have noticed, however, is a lot more anglers are asking me questions about how to get started fly fishing. It seems the interest is there, but taking that first step is a difficult one for many.

While the best way to get started is to be coached by a knowledgeable fly fisherman, few in our area will have that opportunity. There just aren't that many fly fishermen.

However, if you have the desire to fly fish, you can learn it on your own. That's how I started in 1967 and today I can hang my backcast on a tree limb with the best of them.

My first rod was a fiberglass 8-footer of forgotten manufacture which I purchased for a whopping $3 at Woolco. The reel was just as cheap and the double taper floating fly line was certainly bargain basement as well. But I thrashed around with that outfit for several years, eventually refinishing it with new guides and a coat of varnish. My next rod was a 7-foot fiberglass blank which I spent most of one winter assembling with thought's of Nebraska's Verdegre Creek trout dancing through my head. When finished, it was an excellent rod then and still is.

What I'm trying to illustrate, I guess, is that it doesn't require a heavy investment to get started, even today. There are excellent graphite and graphite composite rods out there today in the $40 range which would be ideal to start out with. An inexpensive single action fly reel, a double taper fly line, a few leaders and some flies will get you started. Several companies offer beginning level outfits and that would be a good choice as well. If money is no object, you can easily spend upwards of $700 or more for a graphite rod or up to $3,000 or so (plus a 2-year wait) for a certain bamboo rod.

Learning to fly cast simply takes practice, lots of it in the beginning. Several books are available to help the novice fly fisherman with everything from casting to fly selection and one of them would be a good investment. There are also unbelievable resources about fly fishing on the internet.

My recommendations for a beginning rod would be something in the 8- to 9-foot range which balances with a Number 6 fly line. Long rods are much more forgiving when you are learning to cast because your timing can be somewhat off. The Number 6 on the line simply references the weight of the first 30 feet of line. All fly lines are standardized as to weight so a size 6 of one manufacturer will weigh the same as a size 6 from another. When fly casting, it is the weight of the line which makes the cast rather than the weight of the lure such as in casting or spinning.

Six weight lines are pretty much universal when it comes to fishing for a wide variety of fish from bass to trout to panfish. A six weight will allow you to cast all but the larger bass poppers or deer hair bugs, but still be good enough to deliver a size 20 dry fly if that is required. If all you are going to do is hurl bass poppers for big bass or large streamers for northern pike, you should begin with an 8-weight outfit.

Rod action is usually listed on the rod in terms such as "medium," "medium/fast" or "fast."

A "fast" action rod is not meant for a beginning caster, so avoid them.

Knotless, tapered leaders in 7 1/2-foot lengths are good ones to start out with. Later, as you become more proficient, you may want to use a 9-foot leader in some situations or on certain clear, placid trout streams. A tippet refers to the last 18 inches of the leader. It is, in effect, the leader on the leader. A 4-pound-test tippet would be best for panfish when using size 8, 10 or 12 flies. A 8-pound-test will serve well for both panfish and small bass but if you're casting bigger stuff for bigger bass in cover a minimum of 10 pound test should be used.

Flies are a whole new subject, but a beginner must learn how to cast first. That can be done in your backyard. Be sure to tie a fly on the leader but clip off the point of the hook at the beginning of the bend so it doesn't hang up on the lawn or on you.

Eye protection should be standard procedure whenever you are fly casting. I don't want to scare you, but there are a lot of one-eyed fly fishermen walking around who didn't wear a pair of glasses when casting.

Fly fishing is just a lot of fun. I'd recommend you take it up this year. If you've got questions, give me a call.

Larry Myhre is editor of the Journal. Reach him at (712) 293-4201 or email at: larrymyhre@siouxcityjournal.com

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