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Grapes move from fruit bowl to oven in 'roasted' chicken entree

By Marcia Poole | Posted: Wednesday, August 22, 2007
Grapes are one of the best snacking bargains in town. A mess of Thompson Seedless or other red or green varieties make for easy prep, mindful munching and relatively few calories -- just 90 calories for three-quarters cup.

Pop them in the freezer and grapes take on new meaning as a cool, sweet treat. But there's more to fresh grapes than eating them out of hand or tossing them in a fruit salad. New recipes from two food sources show us the way.

The first one is a surprise. The National Chicken Council/ U.S. Poultry & Egg Association asked cookbook authors Melissa Clark and Robin Aronson for favorite fall chicken recipes. One of their picks calls for roasted grapes. Fresh grapes make a nice accent in chicken salads, but roasted grapes are a new twist. The council says consumers are in for a "big treat" if they've never tried this approach.

The recipe "Roasted Chicken Thighs with Sherried Grapes and Watercress" comes from Clark and Aronson's 2006 cookbook, "The Skinny: How to Fit Into Your Little Black Dress Forever." It uses high oven heat to caramelize the grapes and condense their juices. The result is a "sweet-tart fruit" that's further enhanced with a splash of sherry vinegar. The chicken thighs are roasted in the same pan with the grapes and all is served atop a watercress bed. Rice or potatoes round out the meal.

The second recipe is the show-stopping dessert "Grape and Hazelnut Crumble," created by Sara Moulton, executive chef for Gourmet Magazine and food editor for ABC's "Good Morning America." She also stars on her own TV cooking show. The California Table Grape Commission arranged for the recipe to be tucked in a press kit of new ideas for their favorite fruit.

The commission points out that technically grapes are a berry and, therefore, apropos for Moulton's recipe. She uses red seedless grapes for just the right amount of "sweet subtlety" in a flavor ensemble that includes orange, cinnamon and lovely hazelnuts.

Buttery-flavored hazelnuts also are known as "filberts," with roots in both the "New World" and the "Old World." The variety that came here by way of Europe is the commercially preferred nut. Seeds arrived from Europe in the 17th century and hazelnuts were being sold in New York by 1771, according to the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America. Today, Oregon produces most of our hazelnuts.

Filberts, or hazelnuts, have a hard, brown shell outside and soft golden flesh inside. A papery skin covers the flesh. The nuts are sometimes available in their shell in the fall. Shelled hazelnuts are a favorite in baked goods and a range of other settings, from nut mixes to main dishes and flavored coffee and coffee drinks.

Toasting enhances the hazelnut's flavor and gives it a wonderfully crisp texture. It also makes it easy to remove the papery skin which can be bitter. Toast the shelled nuts in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet for about 10 minutes at 325 degrees F. or until a beautiful fragrance tells you they're done. Shake the sheet occasionally while the nuts are toasting and keep a close eye on them to prevent overdoing.

Getting back to grapes, the California growers remind consumers that the fruit is gaining a reputation for its health benefits in addition to its crisp texture and juicy flavor. The growers refer to research by the American Institute for Cancer Research (AICR) which reports that both grapes and grape juice are generous in plant chemicals believed to have cancer-fighting properties. The skin is the richest source of these chemicals.

As for that popular variety of grapes we know as "Thompson Seedless," the growers explain that William Thompson, an English settler, planted the Eastern Mediterranean grape Oval Kishmish north of Sacramento, Calif., in the 1860s. U.S. consumers now eat about eight pounds of grapes each year.

Roasted Chicken Thighs with

Sherried Grapes and Watercress

8 chicken thighs, bone-in and skin-on (about 3 pounds)

2 cloves garlic, halved

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1 teaspoon salt, divided

1 teaspoon black pepper, divided

2 pounds red, green or black seedless grapes (or combination)

One-quarter cup plus 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1 teaspoon sugar

2 bunches watercress, stems removed

Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Rub each chicken thigh all over with a piece of garlic clove. Place chicken thighs in large bowl and toss with two tablespoons olive oil; season with one-half of the salt and one-half of the black pepper. Transfer chicken to one side of a large, deep-rimmed baking sheet.

In medium bowl, toss together grapes picked from the stems, sherry vinegar, butter and sugar. Season grape mixture with remaining salt and pepper. Spread grapes out on the other half of the baking sheet.

Place chicken and grapes in the oven and roast, tossing grapes occasionally with wooden spoon, until chicken skin is crispy and juices run clear when pierced with a fork, about 30 minutes.

In medium bowl, toss the watercress with remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Arrange watercress on a platter or on individual serving plates; place chicken on top. Spoon grapes over chicken and serve.

Makes four servings, 630 calories per serving. Source: National Chicken Council/ U.S. Poultry & Egg Association; recipes adapted from "The Skinny: How to Fit Into Your Little Black Dress Forever, By Melissa Clark and Robin Aronson," Meredith 2006.

Grape and Hazelnut Crumble

2 cups red California seedless grapes

2 cups green California seedless grapes

One-third cup red currant jelly

One-third cup orange juice

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 to 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

One-quarter cup unbleached all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon packed light brown sugar

One-half teaspoon ground cinnamon

One-quarter teaspoon salt

6 tablespoons very cold unsalted butter

One-half cup rolled oats

One-half cup coarsely chopped hazelnuts

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Reserve three tablespoons of the orange juice. Combine the grapes, jelly and remaining orange juice in a saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the grapes burst, seven to 10 minutes. Whisk together the reserved orange juice and the cornstarch. Add the mixture to the grapes and cook, stirring constantly, until the grape filling boils and thickens, about one minute. Add lemon juice to taste. Transfer the filling to a shallow one-quart baking dish or eight-inch round pan. If desired, individual ramekins may be used.

To prepare the topping: In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, brown sugar, cinnamon and salt. On a cutting board, thinly slice the butter and chop into tiny pieces; add the butter to the flour mixture and toss to combine. Stir in the oats and hazelnuts and sprinkle the mixture and toss to combine. Stir in the oats and sprinkle the mixture evenly over the grape filling in the baking dish. Bake in the center of the oven for 20 to 25 minutes, until the crust is golden. Makes six servings; 349 calories per serving. Source: California Table Grape Commission

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